As you can see, the main sheet is slightly too big for the winches. 14mm rope now, 12mm would be fine. As a result, the plastic on top of the winches will crack after a while. It didn’t happen during the year we were sailing, but the previous owner warned it could happen. New plastic rings should be in the spare parts.

Before closing the dinghy rope stoppers, lift up the little lip that holds the rope (hold the rope tight while doing this). If you push the stopper handle down from the vertical position without lifting the lip, it’s very hard and it will break the stopper sides after a while.

Use WD-40 or some other lubricant on the dinghy motor clamps every month at least. The two different metals (aluminum and steel) tend to seize up quite fast in the salty air.

Outer 3 stoppers on both sides are for reefing, inner 3 are main halyard, outhaul and topping lift. Since you can’t feel when you need to reef like on a monohull, you need to watch the apparent wind speed. The exact table is in the boat manual somewhere, but I think it’s

• up to 20 knots: full sails
• 25 knots: 1 reef in main
• 30 knots: 1 reef in jib
• 35 knots: 2 reefs in main
• 40 knots: 2 reefs in jib
• 45 knots: 3 reefs in main
• 50 knots and over: 3 reefs in jib After sailing a while, you will start to get a feel for when to reef: One hull is noticeably deeper in the water, the other almost lifts up.

Store the winch handles like this (pointing towards the middle of the boat). If you store them with the handle on the other side, you will bang your shins against them

If you ever need to do something on the back of the engine panels, just cut the sealant. You can also access them through the ceiling in the starboard aft cabin, but it’s a lot harder (almost impossible) to reach the back of the panels and you risk damaging the ceiling.

The gangplank is an aluminum ladder because it’s light and it’s easy when there’s a big height difference between the boat and the quay (we had this a few times in Greece).

Daggerboard markers are also in the manual, dagger depth depends on the apparent wind angle. I think it was something like

• close hauled: daggers fully down
• 60º: 1/3 down
• 90º and more: daggers up You have to play around to see what works best for you. We gained around 10º with the daggers down when sailing close-hauled.

To secure the bowsprit, you need to fasten the ropes that are attached to the bows with the soft shackles on the bowsprit. This is easiest to do when sitting on the bowsprit. You’ll want do do this when you’re not sailing or in very calm conditions.

Attach the anchor bridle like this.

Attach the main halyard to the ropes on the sail bag to keep it from banging against the mast.

Attach the main halyard to the upper part of the ring. NEVER use WD-40 to lubricate the carts, this will seize up the ball bearings. Use a silicone-based lubricant instead.

You can walk on the middle part of the bimini.

There’s no gauge for the diesel tanks, but you can see the level through the plastic.

Make sure you put the anchor chain next to the diesel tank when pulling up the anchor. If you don’t manage the chain, it creates a mountain of chain underneath the winch and it will halt rapidly. Also, the middle of the boat underneath the anchor winch is not the most sturdy part and if you leave a lot of chain in there when sailing in big waves, it will crack that part.

There’s a bit of room to put two 25 liter spare diesel jerrycans next to the starboard diesel tank.

This is the hydrogenerator bracket.

This is the hydrogenerator connector. Something you should know about the hydrogenerator: it outputs a lot of electricity (600W, twice the amount of the solar panels). If the batteries are nearly full, they can’t accept that much electricity. The hydrogenerator will detect that and start freewheeling. This gives a loud rumbling noise. Don’t let it freewheel for hours on end. You can turn it upside down to leave it out of the water. Wrestling with the hydrogenerator while the boat is sailing is not easy. I don’t recommend doing that when single-handing.

These fuses should generally be on, except for “Chauffe Eau TB/BB” (TB=starboard, BB=port). Those are the fuses for the water heaters. Leave them off unless you’re connected to shore power so that you don’t accidentally start heating water while running the inverter.

The white switch is to turn on the water heaters when connected to shore power and when the ‘Chauffe Eau’ fuses in the starboard engine room are on.

The red switches on the right of this picture are to connect the engine with the house battery. They should be turned off normally, but you can connect to the house battery if a cranking battery is dead. The lower switch (“coupe batt moteur”) is to cut the cranking battery from the engine, useful when working on the engine and you don’t want to accidentally fuse your wrench to it.

The top of the watt&sea controller lights up in different colors that all mean something, refer to the manual.

The alternator on this engine was new when we bought the boat.

When you steer too hard to one side, the rudders get misaligned, because on rudder can swing a bit more that the other. It’s not a big problem but it reduces efficiency. To align them again,

• turn the starboard wheel so the port rudder is in the middle
• open the valve that connects the rudder hydraulics (disconnecting the port rudder from the steering)
• then put the starboard rudder in the middle
• then close the valve again (connecting both rudders again). There should be markings that align with the nut on the rudder to see when it’s centered.

Switch 12 (bilge pumps) should always be on. The volt meters don’t work, they are replace by the Mastervolt battery monitor. The water tank switch works like you would expect: switch to starboard gives starboard tank level. Port tank will always go empty first, since it feeds the kitchen tap (you can connect starboard and port water systems, explained next)

Use these valves in the port engine room to connect port and starboard water systems. We usually left them disconnected for safety, but sometimes we ran out of water on the port side and then we could still use starboard water in the kitchen.

Fuses under the nav station

• Tenere sempre su on: I don’t know what this does, but since it’s Italian for “keep always on ‘on’”, I didn’t touch it.
• Guindeau: Anchor winch fuse
• Winch: Winch fuse
• Confort: I think this is for the shower pumps etc.
• Pompe eau usee: For sea water pump and black water pumps. If you turn this fuse on, the sea water pump will start running. Then you can use sea water in the kitchen (explained later) or on the deck (port scoop). Turn off after use, as the pump just keeps running.
• Dessal: watermaker
• Boite AV TD: starboard forward cabin
• Boite AR TD: starboard aft cabin
• Boite AV BD: port forward cabin
• Boite AR BD: port aft cabin

A surprising number of people don’t know this, but you need to pump at least 20/30 times in order to keep the hoses fresh after each toilet use, otherwise you get the dreaded boat smell after a while. The previous owner told me this and we followed this religiously. Never had any smells on the boat.

Old AC control panel - does nothing now. The AC unit was in a locker in the starboard forward cabin. The hoses to connect air and water are still there if you would want to reinstall a unit.

Waste water pump switch. Only works when the “Pompe eau usee” fuse under the nav station is on. We never used it.

Watermaker water distribution control valves B = port tank (babord in French) T = starboard tank (tribord in French) top valve = kitchen sink

Kitchen sink tap source Eau de mer = sea water. Only works when the “Pompe eau usee” fuse under the nav station is on. We used it a lot for doing the dishes Eau douce = fresh water, normally from the port water tank

Water maker controller, refer to the manual. Unpickle it before using!!!

The stove and oven knobs: you need to press and turn them, then hold them for a while in that position. Use a lighter as the electric spark things don’t work anymore.

The bag contains sun shades for the saloon windows for inside The box marked “flexi teak” contains rolls of flexi teak to replace the worn out teak on the cockpit locker hatches.

The purple box contains water maker supplies - filters and chemicals.

Vault is glassed into the boat. Next to the cleaning products.

The USB cable gives AIS information to your laptop. We used the free program OpenCPN to visualize traffic around us. If you connect it, you need to set the baudrate to 38400.

Deck shower valve in port engine room.

Deck shower connections.