Gouyave

Written by Pieter Jan on Apr 1, 2020 — 3 min read

At: Gouyave, Grenada

The first evening we arrived in Gouyave, we took the dinghy and docked it at the fishing pier. We went in search of a shop, mainly for topping up internet credits. A good restaurant would be nice too. Preferably one serving steak with fries and chocolate mousse or a coupe colonel for dessert. We read there would be “Fish Friday”, so we’d settle for fish if nothing else.

The atmosphere in town was a bit strange. Everything was closed, yet people were hanging out on the streets. An older guy interrogated us from his porch: “Where are you coming from? How long have you been here? Don’t you be bringing no covid!” We tried to reassure him, but only half succeeded.

We search high and low for the illustrious Fish Friday. But not a fish in sight. In the end, somebody took pity on us and told that everything was closed. You know, because of the virus.

We spent a few relaxing days on the boat, doing a bit of research into world events and their impact on Grenada. Turns out the Grenadian government has gone full berserk on the virus threat (6 cases so far). In doing so, they may have overshot the mark a bit.

Shops are closed except on ‘grocery days’ — whatever that means — from 8:00 to 12:00. They closed all big supermarkets, only small shops can stay open. This is probably to get as many people as possible, packed as tightly as possible, shopping at the same time. To enforce the lockdown, you can’t buy gas at gas stations anymore. So now everyone is walking on the street or taking a bus. The buses in Grenada are minivans. So much for the 2 meter safety radius. I prefer walking.

Police have been given ‘additional authority’ and can and will stop you to check your papers and demand where you’re going, especially if you’re white. White people come from diseased countries. I quickly learned to have the immigration paperwork on me at all times.

On the boat we’re doing fine. Over the course of 4 days I cleaned the bottom, between 16:30 and 18:00, because the back of my legs is still sensitive to the tiniest ray of sunlight. Last time we cleaned the bottom was… in Cape Verde? A whole ecosystem has been growing beneath our feet. It even had crabs.

We also enjoy a swim now and then. Yesterday, around sunset, we were all in the water, chilling out, when small schools of fish started jumping out, all around Vite & Rêves. Suddenly, not even 30 meter from where we were swimming, a HUGE yellowfin tuna crashed through the surface.

The beast must have been 1 or 1.5 meters long. It was as big as a dolphin. And it was fast. “WHOAAAAAA” we yelled in chorus. It jumped a few more times clean out of the water, chasing the small fish. Let me tell you, we too jumped straight out of the water, onto the boat.

Then magnificent frigatebirds, attracted by the commotion, started dive bombing the beleaguered schools as well.

Add the setting sun as backdrop. It was glorious.

All is quiet again
All is quiet again
Just after sunset
Just after sunset
The sky turns into a deep pink
The sky turns into a deep pink